Mad Angler Hub

1. Idea

I, like everyone, have become frustrated while putting effort into a project, especially when the reward is great. It’s during these times, like in comical cinema, mistakes are made, and challenges arise, forming solutions. These solutions are often so relieving they become a common shop habit or permanent solution. It is in this documentation that I record the solution to a problem I was having in my shop: drill bit drift.

I own a drill press, which helps with speed and alignment when drilling holes, however, I own a CNC machine, which cuts to ten thousandths of an inch. It’s obvious the CNC machine will produce a better aligned piece.

My experiment is to create two reel stands. One: with the holes cut using the CNC, and the other: the holes cut with the drill press. However, I will time each build, record the differences between each build, and score the build from 1 to 5 on a variety of parameters. After the stock is cut, and before the holes are cut, I will start the timer. When the holes are cut in the two base parts and the two rack parts I will stop the timer. This window is the only variable we are concerned with in the experiment.

If you are interested in building this project, check out the repo in my GitHub at https://github.com/Kujo016/Reel_Stand. There you can view and download a zip file containing:

• FreeCAD project .FCstd
• the project .gcode files
• .step files
• a .csv with the BOM
• a cut list and raw measurements
• this publication with images in PDF format
• evaluation questions: questions.txt
• and more!

For me, the idea phase is usually the most thrilling part of the build. The battles between what could be and what is viably possible clash, creating an intoxicating suspense. If the mental confirmations click, then I build the project in my mind to the best of my abilities.

The idea for a reel stand formed after looking for something to build that had elegance, was easy to manufacture, and can have a small touch of personalization. The idea is to give the reel a home, a place to be when not in use, or a permanent place to showcase something like a fine antique reel.

I have over a dozen reels, but there is one that has a special place. I have a habit of making the first project for myself or a family member so I know if I make a mistake it’s not all doomed. 

2. Design

If the project needs to be properly designed so mistakes are kept to the minimum, I turn to CAD software or paper and pencil.

Designing the piece in CAD consists of knowing how to use the computer fluently enough to model projects with a difficulty equivalent to craftsperson’s skill level.

For the oak base, I created a new object and edited a new sketch to have a 5.875in x 1.5in rectangle on the x-y plane, then padded the sketch to 0.5in, reversed.

With the new object activated, I made a new sketch on the top plane. I created two circles at 0.3125in, each .75in from the 1.5in edges, and 1in from the “front” of the base. This will yield two off center holes that serve as the base for the pine racks to attach to.

I made another sketch on the “backside” of the base on the x-z plane to place the two centerline holes, each 5/16in (0.3125in) and off center.

I then pocketed the two new sketches, or four new circles, at 0.375in (3/8) for the CAM job.

For the pine rack piece, I created a new object, attached a new sketch, and edited on the x-z plane. I created a  5.875in x 0.75in rectangle. I created a circle with the diameter of the reel that I am designing this stand for, which is 3.75in. I constrained the circle to the top line by creating two points and setting them to 1.75in away from the outside edges. Then I constrained the circle to the points. I deleted the extra lines, angled the corners of the rectangle and constrained the rest of the model in place. With it fully constrained, I padded it reversed.

On the x-z plane of the new object I created a new sketch, drew two 0.375in circles 1.25in away from the outside edge and centered on the rectangle. These are the holes for the walnut bridges.

I hid the base and selected the bottom plane, created a new sketch, and added the holes needed to join the rack to the base via dowel.

I copied the base object, rotated it 180 degrees and aligned the two edges together to make a full base.

I copied the rack object and aligned it to the holes on the newly copied and moved base. Then I moved the old rack body to be aligned with the holes on the old base.
I created the 6, 5/16, dowels that join the objects together as separate objects, and the two 3/8 bridge objects.

This gives me a complete picture of the model and an idea of the materials I will need to complete the piece.

I then create CAM jobs for the routing out the holes with some custom drill speeds software. If you are interested in the software, see my GitHub.

3. Build the Procedure

The process that takes the most time to get right is the protocol for building the piece. For me, this consists of building a file such as this one, making sure that every piece is in place before making the next step.

I write the build procedure just before purchasing all the materials, just in case I change my mind about the design during the material selection process. Many times a material may not be available, or another idea pops up, and you have to change your design just a little. I originally designed this to have the 5/16 as the bridge pieces too, but the local woodshop only had 3/8 walnut dowels, so I had to either purchase online and wait, or just up the size. The difference is very small, and in this case, I was able to change the dowels out and it added to the look. The slightly larger diameter looks great.

This section ends when I step foot in the shop, I pick up the stock, check for squareness, knots, or any other defects before making the initial measurements.

4. Select Stock

I have chosen to have a variety of woods for this first build. I chose a highly dense wood, Red Oak, for the base. This is a hard and heavy wood, which acts as a good pedestal to attach the rack. I chose a softwood, New Zealand’s Radiata Pine, for the rack. This is a softwood, which I figured plays nice with the reel, not that the oak would damage a reel and the pine wouldn’t, but that the pine is a more gentle wood to place a reel on without having to worry about damaging it. Lastly, for the bridging pillars I used a hearty walnut and can be substituted for brass, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, all in tubing or rods. I chose walnut to give the whole look a little shadowing without spending too much extra money on a prototype. The darker Walnut wood contrasts against the Red Oak and light Radiata Pine.

I used a 2ft x 1.5in x 0.5 in red oak board, a 3ft x 2.5in x 0.5in pine board, a 3/8ths walnut dowel, and a 5/16 oak dowel. The 5/16 could be substituted for fluted wooden dowel pins, which are often made of birch or beech, which are good materials for gluing, and the flutes give the glue grip. The pins might be a superior option, compared to the plainly cut dowel rods, depending on intent and material. 

5. Measure and Cut Stock

After checking the stock for any defects, planning the sections for cuts, I use a small gauge square and an embedded awl to mark 6” on the base board. The measurement accounts for the kerf. See the cut list csv for all the details.

6. Cut Holes

a. CNC

I use a wedge clamp mounted to my CNC bed to hold the wood pieces.

I home the machine, even though it’s often already home, just to calibrate the computer and realign everything. I attach the drill bit and jog the machine to the origin. Sometimes, if the workpiece is large enough then I will use the z-probe, but lately I have found eyeballing it works just fine. After running the machine, I always inspect the part, making sure it’s cut to spec.

b. Drill Press

The process with the drill press will determine the variation in the experiment. To stay spry, I will take my time, marking each cut with an awl. Then I will use a brad-point bit to keep precision. Depths will be stopped at 3/8^thin deep.

7. Cut Corners

I will mark the chamfer at 0.25 and cut on the table saw. The repo suggests this can be done on a bandsaw or jointer. Again, here I am marking with a mini awl to keep accuracy.

8. CNC Engraving

The base board will be positioned so the top side is tilted up. I will use a block cut at 45 degrees to position the piece perfectly before jogging the machine to the origin.

9. Dry Fit

I expect the drill press version to be harder to assemble; I expect the joints to not be as flush as the CNC version; I expect the drill press version to be about 40% faster than using the CNC.

10. Sanding

I will take apart the entire model and sand the faces from 220 to a 1000 grit. I will assemble the model and sand the bottom, edges, and top with 220 to 1000.

11. Glue, Assembly, Clamping

Gluing is the hard part for me because I always forget the rag and bowel of water. Not this time!

12. Finishing

I will finish the wood with beeswax or oil.

Conclusion

At this point, the file has been built with CAD, geometry, toolpaths, materials, expectations, images, and this written procedure. I have planned everything, making every decision as carefully as possible, but none of those decisions have encountered the resistance of the wood.

Stepping foot in the shop begins the experiment.

I expect the CNC-machined stand to have better hole alignment, more consistent joints, and a cleaner final assembly. I expect the drill-press version to require less machine preparation and to be completed approximately 40 percent faster. What remains unknown is whether the additional accuracy of the CNC will save enough time during fitting, sanding, and assembly to overcome its longer setup process.

This produces the central question of the build:

When does the slower method become the faster method?

A hole can be cut in seconds, but an inaccurate hole may demand several minutes of correction. A machine may require careful setup, but that setup may remove uncertainty from every step that follows. The experiment is therefore not simply a comparison between a CNC machine and a drill press. It is a comparison between preparation and correction, repeatability and flexibility, measured accuracy and practical shop efficiency.

The completed stands will be judged according to build time, dimensional accuracy, joint alignment, ease of assembly, surface quality, structural stability, and overall appearance. Unexpected problems, procedure changes, material behavior, and mistakes will also be recorded rather than removed from the account. Those details may reveal more about the two methods than the final scores alone.

The design is complete. The stock has been selected. The procedure has been written. The predictions have been recorded before the evidence can influence them.

Now the project is waiting in its raw materials.

The oak is still a board. The pine is still unshaped. The walnut dowels have not yet become bridges. The two methods have not yet been tested.

The only remaining step is to enter the shop and turn the protocol into evidence.